Thursday, July 14, 2011

Life on the Camino...the first weeks

The first stamp on my passport!!
     Alright, here we go!  Lots of traveler thoughts and experiences are about to spill forth on the page. where to even begin the writings; I think is the most difficult part, as the thoughts and images of the experiences all swirl about into one giant pool of memories. I should start off by saying that this is one of the most incredible trips I have ever done, and am glad to be here.
     Each morning is a brand new adventure. Though I can look endlessly at my maps, I do not know what the day will hold nor what I shall see along the way, but then I have always loved the mystery...if we knew everything we were to see, would it be as exciting? Each day holds its own challenges and also its gifts, the trail I have come to learn very much has a life of its own...unravelling its magic and moments of frustration to teach important lessons on and off the trail. A learning curve indeed, but one that I have come to understand and appreciate. Though the country is small, the diversity and landscape of France varies greatly from day to day, noticable in both the environment but also in the houses. In the small villages, it is easy to feel as though transported back in time, imagining carts rolling through the dirt roads. Chicken have free range in a lot of the villages, pecking at the ground roaming about and strutting their feathry stuff. Nervous at first when I encounter a rooster, for in the past I have been a target for roosters, being chased about with them trying ot peck at my legs. Luckily out here; I draw no interest or threat to the roosters and we happily continuue on with our lives, me down the trail; the rooster cock-a-doodling, or playing ninja chicken warrior with its fellow feathered friends;  I kid you not, at one point while walking onwards, I lookd over to see two chickens pecking and kicking each other while being encircled by the rest of the flock!! How has there not been a movie about this yet? Maybe with my time during the day, I will write a petit script and send it to Hollywood...

    The firsst section from Geneva to Le Puy was very quiet, but that was something I had anticipated fro, the start, and thought at times lonely without anyone to talk to, it was a good time for me to get aquainted with the trail and sink into my thougts a little about how I hped for the days to come, and have the time really to simply reflect, and reflection I have done!  Originally, I wanted to keep communication back home to a minimum, or to say really, no phonecalls until the end. But I came to realize quite early on; it is nice to hear a familiar voice, and as my conversations were limited to the amount of french I knew, most of my days virtually silent, with my journal entries growing increasingly longer by day. The one challenge of travelling along is that you cannot share or talk about the experiences, so each day the list of things that I had seen or done grew, and at last, I reached Le Puy, my first section complete, I called home to speak english and share in on all the wonderful experiences I have encountered thus far, while catching up on all the latest news on the gardens and neighbours! SO often, I try to do things alone, maintaining this image of independance and separateness, that I feel like I miss out on something much bigger than the experience, as well as something I am endlessly striving, which is sharing and connectedness. Yes, to disconnect is a positive from time to time but like in all things there needs to be a balance, and oftentimes enough I disconnect myself more than open and dig in. Something I think about greatly while out walking, and experience greatly as I am not french and feel that at times I am missing out on much of the conectedness that this trail is composed of. Such are my thoughts.  But as I draw further away from Le Puy and closer towards St. Jean the diversity of folks grows and slowly a melange of languages becomes mixed. 
Just before I arrived in Figeac, I met a new friend from New Zealand, named Stephanie. We instantly fell into conversation, and made plans to meet in Figeac that evening...sadly it did not happen. The following morning, while trying to decide out my day and plans; who should I bump into but Stephanie, a big smile as we met and made plans to spend the afternoon in Figeac and watch the tour de France. Here is the day that is different from the rest. Rather to spend another night in Figeac, and feeling the quiet strain of my schedule tapping on my shoulder, I agreed to join her on taking the bus to the next town, Carjac. I had much diliberation about this, but thought it through and an adventure is an adventure and this was just a bit different, so I hopped the bus. Whether the trail disapproved or it is just my endless waryness of busses in general; true to form, about 10 minutes into the ride, my stomach turned for the worst and spent the hour lying down on the seats hoping to keep my lunch in before arriving. So, sadly I missed the scenery and paid for the day feeling rather ill and queasy, yet had a good nights sleep and was ready for the follwing day of 33km.....all in the rain!  Yes a downpour, with everything soaking through and through, included also was my ipod and camera, but luckily no damage incurred to either! Phew. That evening I stayed in a monastery in Vaylats, accompanies by my new friends Stephanie from NZ, Clement from France and Lionel from Switzerland. The monastery was a beautiful old building; quite large but very peaceful, with an old partially unkempt garden in the back to wander about and sit to enjoy the solitude. We shared dinner together, there were about 8 of us pilgrims and two hospitality folk, the woman sat with us, talking about his and that, very quickly so was very hard to follow along; though her face full of expressions. She was very kind; and also quirky, and took us young pilgrims under her wing, giving us little gifts, while saying in a hushed voice 'do not tell the sisters, for they shouldn't know'.  I think she liked having some young folks around!

     Gracious there are so many stories and things to write and share, I feel like I am missing so many bits and pieces.  Today was a short and mixed travel day, and walked onwards to Cahors with more friends that I have met, one Didi from Germany who I have walked with twice now and is of the same pace as me. He has been on tthe trail much longer than I. June 1st, the day after he retired from work! And will walk to Fisterra, though I think soon our paths will depart, at least for some time, as he has shorter stops in the day s to come and my days prove to be much longer with a hopeful rest in St Jean Pied-a-la-port, where my next pair of shoes and another pair of socks await. Currently, I am with only one pair, having left the second pair at a gite. It wouldn't be for another 10km or so that I would remeber my socks were still haning on the line to dry, and with that distance, not really worth it to go back. There are shops if I really need another pair; For now the load has been slightly lightened. Speaking of loads, my pack is fairly light until I put my weighty sack of food inside, wich seems to be the trouble of all the weight, but there is little i can do to reverse this, unless i choose not to eat, which is an option I have tossed out the window. OUt here it is good to eat and drink to keep the energy up and th emind in good working order. Food has been a tricky subject, but I have it down to an art now, with a hearty breakfast of yogurt, bananas and oats in the morning followed by a cheesy something rather for llunch, carames and nutella and then a dinner of rice and lentils most nights unless there is a dinner for us in which it is a three course meal oftentimes including an omlette. Gluten free options are limited and non existent in teh small villages, and have come to realize the difficulties of making sure I eat enough during the day, thus a baguette is bought and deal with the mild side effects as they present themselves, but am constantly in thought of what I can do for the day to limit how much bread goes in....recently I have been privy to that of prunes, condensed milk and chocolate bars....lots of energy and a regular poop cycle never hurt no? BUt the cheese, oh the cheese is spectacular, and shall be quite difficult to return home, for it is fresh and local here. Currently I have a round of camembert which has begun to smell up my entire bag, overpowering even the smell of my feet. Rather unpleasant but ever so good to eat!
 Typically my days begin at 6am, and I am out the door around 6h30 on my way for the day. It's wonderful to begin in the morning for there is a tranquility to the towns, and is a time fo rthoughts and inspirqtion to just come and go at will. IN a few hours the rest of the world awakes and the day settles in, passing many pilgrims, cars and other locals out on their daily routines. The afternoon winds down and the routine of arriving for the day to my gite happens, where the shower is taken, the food is prepared and the schedule for the following day is planned and laid out ready to do. Then it is time to visit and to share in the days experiences with others. Some nights are more tranquile, and others in true french style with singing and many conversations about food. The french love their food and love to talk about their food in great detail, of wines, amazing cafes to visit, the best bakeries, or experiences and recomendations along the way. If I stopped at them all, I fear I shan't ever make it to Santiago, and will need a larger pair of pants! But I keep in mind what is said, and if the chance or occassion arises then I try the places and foods, when in Rome...or rather France.   Currently, I am in Fois Gras country, duck. So will be missing out on this delicacy but there is still the cheese to try.
Today is a national holiday, though I haven't really witnessed anything out of the ordinary. While in Figeac, there was the great wait for the Tour de France to come zooming through which was rather exciting to watch but zoom they came and went, in 30 seconds they were gone.  But the excitement of the towns folk to come out and watch was something to see and be a part of, cheering on the cyclers before returning back to daily life. Perhaps tonight there will be fireworks but there is not much talk or mention so we shall see what the happenings shall be as they arise.

Peaceful monastery in Vaylats, FR

Chapelle Madelaine build into the rocks

Lionel along the chemin


Overlooking Le Puy

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